The Art
Cloth Network Collaborative Custom Repeat Pattern Workshop
Monday,
April 24, 2023 at the Fabric Workshop and Museum in Philadelphia
On Monday,
April 24, 2023, the day after our in-person meeting in Philadelphia, seven
members of Art Cloth Network got together for a workshop at the Fabric Workshop
and Museum. In attendance were Mary Ann Nailos, Ileana Soto, Barbara Matthews, Adria Sherman, Judy Languille, Sherri Lipman McCauley and Regina Marzlin. Together we designed, prepared a screen for printing, set up the print table for repeats, then printed
seven yards of fabric. The fabric was a cotton sateen with a 30” repeat using textile inks.
The
facilities were wonderful, with very long print tables: 30” high, 68” and 72” wide
and 20 yards long!
The first thing we learned was what types of marks and masks were opaque when transferred to the light sensitive screen. Various markers and black papers were
considered.
The first
challenge was coming up a design. This was a lesson in team building. Each
person came up with some marks or shapes that were then laid on top of the paper
that is transparent in the printing process. The loose pieces of black paper were taped to the base with transparent tape.
After
getting the arrangement we liked, a “jog” line was cut through the white spaces
down the center of the design. The outside edges of the design were then put
together so that the straight edges were now in the center, with gaps that
needed to be filled in with more shapes and marks. The irregular edges that the
jog line created on the sides ensures that the repeat would be less noticeable
when the fabric is printed. Finally, everything was taped in place.
The design
was placed on top of a prepared screen with a photo-sensitive emulsion and
brought to a separate room housing the light table. The table was equipped with
a vacuum that ensured the design was flat and would not move around during
exposure to the light.
After
exposure, the screen was brought to a large sink and the photo emulsion was
removed from the areas opaque to the light by spraying with a hose.
The tables
were equipped with rails with stops. The screens had L brackets that registered
against each stop. Each stop was positioned precisely 30” apart in order to
ensure the proper repeat.
Our next
decision was color. We chose a medium blue as our main print color and also
some other colors for accents. We used gold, a maroon red, some greens and
lighter blues. These were dispensed from squeeze bottles, dripping them onto
the screen before the main color was placed in the well at the top of the
screen.
Printing was
a two person job. The squeegee was pushed across to the center by the first
person, then pulled the rest of the way by someone on the other side of the table.
Every other stop was printed so that the no stray ink was picked up on the
screen to mar the design. Every person had a hand in each print, either
squirting the ink on the screen or taking turns pushing or pulling the squeegee.
Large fans
dried the ink, then the rest of the repeats were completed.
At the end
of the day each took home one yard of our originally designed fabric, with our
names printed on the selvage! It was a great fun and a good learning experience. Who will be the first to cut up their precious fabric?